3D can work too, and it's worth experimenting which does better. You will always have a challenge getting a relatively slow lens to perform without having either to run too slow a shutter speed, or crank the ISO past what is ideal for sharpness.Īuto focus, if your subject has a tendency to move, should be Continuous servo, and probably Dynamic Area. The slower you go, the lower your ISO can go, and you'll gain a bit in sharpness and dynamic range as well as noise. Experiment a little if you have time, to see how slow you can go. If the vibration control is really good, and your quarry is standing still, you might be able to go much slower, but the slower you go, the more likely you are to get blurry images. You may be able to go slower if you have a steady hand and a relatively still subject, but the faster the better. Just what shutter speed may depend on whether the wildlife is moving, whether you're good at panning, and how well the lens's vibration control works.Ī good start might be to use Manual exposure mode, with Auto ISO on, set the aperture to 5 at the shortest end, and then zoom as needed, and set the shutter speed at at around 1/500. I would suggest that for wildlife in low light you use the lens wide open (smallest F number), and choose a shutter speed that can stop motion.
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